Feds look to regulate public climbing opportunities

To guide how climbing opportunities are managed in national forests, grasslands and parks, public input is requested on new guidance for U.S. Forest Service (USFS) and National Park Service (NPS) personnel.

The public comment period is open until January 16.

The guidance covers all climbing types, including rock climbing, snow and ice climbing, mountaineering, canyoneering and caving. It affirms that this is an appropriate use of public lands, including wilderness, and that it should be managed in a way that protects cultural and natural resources.

“Climbing is a popular way to enjoy the outdoors and recreate on public lands,” said Forest Chief Randy Moore in a press release.

“The proposed directive would ensure the Forest Service supports world-class climbing opportunities while also protecting natural and cultural resources for future generations.”

Part of the focus is on fixed anchors, which are bolts or similar equipment that are left permanently in place and are sometimes necessary for safe public use.

Input has already been received and incorporated from listening and consultation sessions with tribes, Native Hawaiian Organizations and Alaskan Tribes and Organizations.

Once the public comment period closes, the NPS and USFS will develop their final policy.

The USFS guidance highlights the need for climbing area management plans that balance objectives with site-specific needs and opportunities, including alignment with the Wilderness Act. Currently, there is no national guidance in place for acceptable climbing practices on national forests and grasslands.

The proposed guidance will provide local Forest Service land managers with direction on how to guide climbers on the most appropriate places and practices to recreate responsibly and protect natural and cultural resources. It follows the 2021 Consolidated Appropriations Act, which directs the Forest Service to develop guidance to manage climbing on national forests and grasslands.

The NPS guidance will help wilderness and climbing managers make informed decisions about fixed anchors and outlines the processes for managing existing and new climbing routes in wilderness areas. The analysis will help NPS determine what level of fixed anchor use best preserves the totality of wilderness character while taking account of human safety concerns.  

“Like many in the climbing community, I share a lifelong love and appreciation of outdoor recreation sparked by a childhood spent exploring and enjoying the natural world,” National Park Service Director Chuck Sams said in the press release.

“The proposed guidance will help provide a consistent process for installing new or replacing existing fixed anchors in wilderness and ensure that we are managing these important areas for the benefit of current and future generations.”

The proposals include that:

Climbing be designated an appropriate use of USFS lands, including in wilderness, when conducted in accordance with applicable law and Forest Service directives and consistent with the applicable land management plan.

A management plan be developed, as funding and resources allow, for climbing opportunities in wilderness, and for opportunities outside wilderness where the district ranger determines that climbing is causing adverse resource impacts or use conflicts.

Fixed anchors and fixed equipment are installations for purposes of section 4(c) of the Wilderness Act and a Forest Supervisor may authorize the placement or replacement of fixed anchors and fixed equipment in wilderness based on a case-specific determination that they are the minimum necessary for administration of the area, including primitive or unconfined recreation and preservation of wilderness character.

Existing fixed anchors and fixed equipment in wilderness may be retained pending completion of a Minimum Requirements Analysis, as funding and resources allow, that determines they are the minimum necessary to facilitate primitive or unconfined recreation or otherwise preserve wilderness character.

The issuance and administration of special use permits are encouraged to enhance visitor access to climbing opportunities and visitor education concerning low impact climbing practices.

Comments about the U.S. Forest Service guidance can be submitted at https://cara.fs2c.usda.gov/Public/CommentInput?project=ORMS-3524. Comments about the NPS guidance can be submitted at https://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?documentID=132387.